This season, no dancing show but a performance of marimbas (kinds of xylophones) by the Trio SR9 percussion ensemble.

The mannequins moved around the instruments installed in the center of the stage, following the paths traced by the light on the backdrop of an empty theater.

Continuing the exploration of geometric shapes, the stylist Satoshi Kondo played for this collection with the square associated with "a painter's canvas, a music score, a piece of fabric", taking it out of its frame to create new shapes. .

Issey Miyake show at the Châtelet theater during Fashion Week in Paris, March 3, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The latter are born thanks to flexible and stretchy materials with a minimum of sewing or different knitting techniques.

The volumes are present, as usual in the Japanese tradition of "ma", unfilled space between the garment and the body, but the silhouette is very feminine, with geometric knits emphasizing the waist or the bare back adorned with asymmetrical bands .

Issey Miyake show during Fashion Week in Paris, March 3, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

Pops of bright colors - orange, yellow, purple or coral - are present but a good part of the collection is in black and white.

Echoing the theme of the square, the tartan motif, unusual for Issey Miyake, unfolds on blouses and coats, confirming the trend launched by the Dior and Saint-Laurent shows during Fashion Week in Paris.

Issey Miyake show during Fashion Week in Paris, March 3, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The shoes are flat and the headgear ingenious, ranging from turbans to hats with drooping brims, including a balaclava-cap.

© 2023 AFP