Expectations were high at Paris Fashion Week, which ended on March 7. Especially for the Balenciaga brand which was expected at the turn. After the bad advertising buzz in December featuring a child sporting a leather-strapped teddy bear in a sadomasochistic aesthetic, Demna Gvasalia, artistic director, chose to leave on a more refined basis. Balenciaga presented a more streamlined collection, without logos, without stars in the front rows giving way to clothes that demonstrate the couture know-how of the house. The show opened with a series of costumes with exaggerated volumes and oversized shoulders. For the evening, the models wore more protective dresses.

Homecoming

The designers returned to the history of the houses, paying tribute to their founders like Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne (who died a month ago) who presented metal dresses from the archives and infusing throughout the collection references to the designer.

Andreas Kronthaler also celebrated his wife, designer Vivienne Westwood, who died on December 29. A very emotional show that opened with a model dressed in a T-shirt bearing the designer's image, then by a series of silhouettes with punk accents and bold style with volume games, tartan, draped dresses and corsets.

At Alexander McQueen's collection celebrated the body and anatomy with a sculptural Naomi Campbell on the catwalk, in a raven-black strapless sheath dress.

Sarah Burton has immersed herself in the archives of the house by revisiting tailoring. Dark silhouettes that echoed those imagined by Alexander McQueen in his early days. It is also a way for the designer to "go back to where things started".

The Frenchman Ludovic de Saint Sernin has revisited for the first time the legacy of Ann Demeulemeester (great Belgian designer of the years 1990-2000) who left her house ten years ago. The creator perpetuates the codes of the label by infusing it with a dose of sensuality and eroticism. A long black silk skirt is worn just with a feather hiding the chest.



Comeback of classy and sensual fashion

Another return in the 1990s with Martine Sitbon (flagship designer of this decade) who made her comeback in Paris Fashion Week with the presentation of her new label Rev. We found with delight her famous velvet dresses and her attraction for a line oscillating between masculine and feminine. A way to revisit "the past towards the future".

Monday, March 6 in the morning, it is the British Stella McCartney who opened the penultimate day of the shows. The designer gave pride of place to men's suits composed of oversize jackets, wide pants, highlighting tailoring made in Savile row. Also paraded were ultra-long coats or double-breasted strapless dresses. The feminine spirit was found on small dresses in satin and lace, then on dresses with thin straps printed with a horse's head that close the show. A skilled rider and respectful of the animal cause, Stella announced that 89% of her collection was made from responsible materials, with fabrics imitating apple or mushroom leather.

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