• The Crous de Bretagne has just received the "green plates" label for its daily offer of vegetarian dishes.
  • By putting less meat and fish on the plates, Crous reduces its environmental footprint.
  • In 2022, more than three million meals were served in university restaurants in Brittany, the highest figure in France.

It is barely 13:15 pm but the restaurant U is gradually emptying. On the displays of the Metronome's self-service restaurant, Rennes students still have a little choice: cooked ham, carrot puree, eggplant pie or potato crumble and butternut. A range of original dishes that would never have had its place on the slate of the great Crous restaurant a few months ago.

Located on the Villejean campus, the Metronome faces the University of Rennes-2 and sees up to 2,500 students pass through every day who are known to be very poor. Proposed at one euro for scholarship holders and 3.30 euros for non-scholarship holders, the Crous meal had been the subject of strong criticism at the beginning of the school year: too expensive for some, too meagre for others. Less than six months after the start of the school year, the Breton regional branch has just distinguished itself by being labeled "Green Plates" by the association Assiettes végétales. A prize that highlights the work done to rethink recipes in a complicated ecological and economic context.

"It's a complete questioning"

Since January 1st, the Egalim law requires public institutions to offer a vegetarian alternative. The Crous de Bretagne had taken a step ahead by offering two vegetarian dishes each day in September, in addition to a fish or meat dish. "We already did it from time to time. But sometimes it was limited to serving only as an accompaniment, "admits Marcos Martinez. Since his arrival in September, the technical coordinator of the catering has been able to benefit from training dedicated to vegetarian food with his kitchen teams. "It's a complete questioning and it's destabilizing for us. In most schools, meat or fish are used to compose the meal." Man has discovered the power of legumes such as chickpeas, lentils or broad beans. "They're very rich in amino acids so it's very balanced. We were not used to working these products. We started cooking again," says Marcos Martinez.

This idea of offering two vegetarian dishes on a daily basis was born from an alert that arrived in the summer of 2022 on the offices of Crous Bretagne. "We have been warned that there may be cuts in meat and fish supplies. We wanted to rethink differently, by developing real vegetarian recipes," explains Yann-Eric Prouteau. To those who would cry out for the desire to do less, the regional director of the Crous responds firmly:

We have been criticized, saying that we were doing this to save money, this is false. We had to give ourselves some time. We moved on to another way of thinking, we improved, we trained. Vegetarian cuisine is not cheaper because it requires much more work in the kitchen. »

To those who would cry the scandal of vegan lobbying, the CROUS responds just as vigorously through the voice of Blandine Lucas, the deputy director of the establishment: "The demand for vegetarian meals comes from students. But we were also asked to maintain a good offer of meat and fish because outside the Crous, many students can not afford it. We will not abandon it. For many students, Restaurant U is the only opportunity to eat animal protein.

Chickpea curry and soy chili

At the beginning of 2023, half of the plates served in U restaurants in Brittany are vegetarian. The impact is enormous on the environmental level because of the weight of the catering service. In Brittany, university restaurants served more than three million meals last year, making Crous de Bretagne the largest in France. "This label is a way to highlight what is being done here. Brittany is an example for some regions that do not yet respect the law. It works with the students but it also works with the Crous teams, who can cook differently," explains Mostafavi Keyvan, Assiettes végétales campaign manager.

For several months, his association has been training the kitchen teams in new recipes, some of which have become essential: chickpea curry, eggplant lasagna, or soy chili. "Too often we have seen plates of dry pasta served to students who had no alternative to Bolognese sauce. There is a real societal challenge in turning to an increasingly plant-based diet. We must be able to give the choice, "adds Morgane Paris, in charge of administration of the association.

And what do students think? Overall, they seem to be satisfied with this new offer, highlighting the efforts made by the CROUS. "When I come here, I have enough to eat, it's varied," says Charlotte. "I feel like it depends on the days. But they try things, things that we are not used to eating, "adds Diane, in 2nd year. She admits she loved the vegetable pie. A little less homemade carrot puree. For Elisa, this is the first year in the U restaurants. "I was not a scholarship holder last year. There, I can eat for one euro. It's great, I don't even ask myself the question."

Our section "The lunch break"

Her friend Soundous is less excited, cooled by the price of 3.30 euros: "It doesn't seem like much but if you come every lunchtime, it weighs. " However, the young student appreciates the "varied offer" offered. A little further, Luis hardly finished the plate of carrots. "But frankly, I eat well. When you come here, you always find something you like." The young man puts a flat concerning the vegetarian offer. "I feel like it's taking over. It's important to keep meat." The management of the Crous promises that it will always be present. And should even go up in quality.

  • Brittany
  • Rennes
  • Crous
  • Restaurant
  • Student
  • Vegan
  • Vegetarianism
  • Vegetarian
  • University
  • Society
  • The lunch break